How to power Raspberry Pi 5?
To power a Raspberry Pi 5 safely and reliably, treat it more like a small PC than a toy board. Here’s what you need and what not to do.
1. Official / recommended way (best choice)
Use a USB-C 5V / 5A PD power supply
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The Raspberry Pi 5 is designed for:
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5 V, up to 5 A via USB-C
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The official Raspberry Pi 5 PSU is:
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27 W USB-C PD (5 V at up to 5 A), and it negotiates PD correctly for the board + USB devices.
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Why this matters:
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Pi 5 can draw much more current than older models, especially with:
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USB SSDs
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Cameras, HATs, Wi-Fi load, CPU+GPU under stress
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A random 5 V / 3 A phone charger may:
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Not negotiate PD correctly
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Drop voltage under load → crashes, throttling, SD corruption
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So:
Best practice: Use the official Raspberry Pi 5 power supply (or a high-quality USB-C PD PSU that supports 5 V / 5 A and is known to work with Pi 5).
2. Can I use a normal phone charger?
Short version: Maybe, but not recommended.
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If it is USB-C PD and can do at least 5 V / 3 A, the Pi might work for:
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Light usage (no heavy USB devices)
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Problems you may see with weak supplies:
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Lightning-bolt / undervoltage icon
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Random reboots
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SD card errors
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USB devices disconnecting
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If you must use one:
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Make sure the PSU is PD-capable, not just 5 V / 2 A legacy.
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Prefer 5 V / 3–5 A rated bricks from reputable brands.
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Avoid long, thin USB-C cables → they cause voltage drop.
3. Powering USB devices & HATs
Everything hangs from that 5 V rail:
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USB drives, SSDs, Wi-Fi adapters → can draw hundreds of mA each
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HATs and custom boards may draw 500 mA–1 A or more
That’s why the board is designed around 5 A input headroom.
Rules of thumb:
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If you attach a USB SSD, absolutely use a good 5 V / 5 A supply.
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For very power-hungry USB setups:
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Consider a powered USB hub so the hub, not the Pi, powers the devices.
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4. Can I power via GPIO pins?
On Pi 5, this is strongly discouraged unless you really know what you’re doing.
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The 40-pin header still has:
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Pin 2, 4: 5 V
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Pin 6, 9, 14, etc.: GND
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If you feed 5 V directly into these pins:
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You bypass:
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USB-C power-negotiation
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Protection circuits (fuse, some surge/OVP mechanisms)
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There is no reverse-polarity protection: wrong connection = dead Pi.
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Must be an extremely stable 5 V source with low ripple and enough current (5 A).
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So unless you’re designing a custom industrial PSU and understand the risks, stick with USB-C.
5. Powering from a battery / power bank
A. Using a USB-C power bank
Works fine if:
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The power bank supports USB-C PD at 5 V / 3–5 A.
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It does not auto-sleep at low current (some banks shut off if load is small).
Look for:
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“27 W”, “30 W”, or similar PD output
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5 V 3 A, 9 V 2 A specs (as long as 5 V 3 A is supported)
B. Using raw batteries (Li-ion, LiPo, etc.)
Don’t connect them directly. You need:
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A DC-DC buck converter that outputs 5 V / 5 A,
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Very clean and stable,
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Then feed that into:
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Preferably the USB-C port (through a USB-C PD trigger / module), or
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As a last resort, the 5 V pins on the header (with all the caveats above).
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6. Safe shutdown (very important for SD card)
Regardless of how you power the Pi 5:
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Always shut down the OS before cutting power:
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From desktop: Shutdown button
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From terminal:
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Wait until:
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Green activity LED stops blinking
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HDMI signal disappears
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Then unplug power.
This reduces risk of:
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SD card corruption
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File system errors
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“Sometimes it boots, sometimes it doesn’t” issues
7. Quick checklist
If your question is “How do I power it correctly?”:
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Buy/use the official 27 W Raspberry Pi 5 USB-C power supply (or same-spec PD supply).
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Use a short, good-quality USB-C cable if the PSU is separate.
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Avoid powering from the GPIO 5 V pins unless you absolutely have to and know power electronics.
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For heavy USB loads, consider:
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Powered USB hub, or
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Very solid 5 V / 5 A PD brick.
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Always shutdown before unplugging.

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